Best Metal Filled Epoxies
Sets in 4-6 hours at room temperature and cures dark grey in 15-24 hours and rated at a tensile strength of 3960 PSI. Once cured it forms a permanent bond and can be shaped, tapped, filed, sanded and drilled and will withstand temperatures of up to 550 degrees Fahrenheit.
Reviews
Find Best Price at Amazon"The major drawback to epoxies is that they consist of two parts (resin and hardener) which must be mixed in small batches, and then applied with your own applicator (e.g., a toothpick or popsicle stick). Some are packaged in a dual-syringe--but that is not an adequate solution, because the components must still be manually mixed in order harden to maximum strength. HOW TO USE JB-WELD. General Principles: Although JB WELD makes an excellent filler---and can even be used to cast small parts, it is not remotely as strong as real metal used this way. I generally use a small grinding wheel in a Dremel tool to roughen the surfaces. If you do not have a commercial degreaser handy, a paste of laundry detergent and a stiff brush may do the trick. Joining Broken Parts: If you are joining broken parts, with a clean but irregular matching surfaces, limit the roughening to scratching with a wire brush or etching with an acid (but be sure to wash off all traces of the acid). Apply a THIN uniform layer of JB WELD, lightly clamp together hard enough to squeeze out any excess. ScotchBlue Painter's Tape for Multi-Surfaces 2090-.75A, 3/4 Inches by 60 Yards, 1 Roll. Joining Dissimilar Parts: Minimize any gaps if possible, e.g., by sanding if possible so that the contact as perfect as possible. To join a 1/8" steel rod, to another 1/8" steel rod, forming a "T" (a common and easy welding job, almost impossible with just JB-Weld), cut two 1"-long "L's" from a heavy-paper clip, (or make L's from similar wire), and embed those with JB-Weld on opposite sides of the joint. You can further strenthen the joint by wrapping fine steel wire around the rods holding the "L"s in place---before covering it all with JB-Weld. For small parts, or when wire wouldn't work well, unwaxed dental floss is remarkably strong, and can do an excellent job of reinforcing joints (when embeded in JB Weld). Holes in car body panels etc: If you can cover at least one side of the hole with a piece of sheet metal (held in place by JB Weld) that is a good strategy---the combination of pop-rivets and JB Weld often works especially well, even if you ultimately sand the heads of the pop rivets away. Note that epoxies do not "dry"--there are no solvents to evaporate, instead a chemical reaction hardens the cement (a plastic resin). White glue shrinks a great deal as it dries, and so is not good for filling holes or large gaps. I've used Goop to repair ceramic plant pots, water hoses, and shoes; to seal holes in air-mattresses, to close small holes in window screens, as plumbers paste in assembling plumbing parts, to I also use it to seal rust spots on my dishwasher rack--the Goop it also makes a "cushioned" surface that will prevent scratches to dishes. It is a good alternative for Goop for general household use on glass, plastic, and metal when you do not need the maximum possible strength. For example: GE Silicone II Household Glue, 2.8 oz. Fabric Glue: Beacon Fabri-Tac Permanent Adhesive, 4-Ounce works amazingly well on fabrics, saturating the surfaces enough to provide a very strong bond, but without soaking through. It remains very flexible, e.g., it would probably be great on leather or heavy vinyl (e.g., women's handbags, shoes, luggage, etc.). Previously, I used super-glue frequently on objects (e.g., jewelry) when a clear bond was required---however, Goop is better for such applications, safer, and more conveneient. Opened super-glue keeps poorly, even in tighly sealed glass containers---so I recommended packages of multiple very small tubes. Most construction adhesives are slightly flexible, and so can even be used on leather (i.e., to repair a loose shoe sole), etc. As an adhesive, it is the weakest on this list, but is strong enough for many purposes when spread over a large surface, such as the back of a ceramic tile. I could have used construction adhesive (albeit any excess that squeezed out would have been ugly)--but caulking compound was quick, cheap, looks good, and was more than adequate for the job."
"It was likely just a bubble in the granite mix that came to the surface and remained unseen until it got to me. I didn't want to take out the sink and replace it for two reasons: one it is a lot of work and two it seems like such a waste of materials in the environmental sense. I called the company and they would replace the sink free of charge (not install)."
"This is the epoxy Honda calls for when repairing leaks in the block or heads from aluminum porosity. It is very hard and strong and will withstand 550 degrees F. The key is to clean the surface completely."
"Make sure whatever you are fixing has a clean surface free of paint and dirt and you will have a strong repair."
"I sanded the end of the support rod and sanded the broken weld spot on the main pole, then applied the J-B Weld."
"This is the strongest commonly available epoxy I use and I have used a considerable number of packets over the years."
"I tried a few other brands glues for my shoes and they didn't stick long."
"Only compliant is that it is a little 'runny' before it dries."
Great for household repairs, automotive projects, plumbing and marine applications, crafts and more. Once cured it forms a permanent bond and can be shaped, tapped, filed, sanded and drilled and will withstand temperatures of up to 550 degrees Fahrenheit.
Reviews
Find Best Price at Amazon"The major drawback to epoxies is that they consist of two parts (resin and hardener) which must be mixed in small batches, and then applied with your own applicator (e.g., a toothpick or popsicle stick). Some are packaged in a dual-syringe--but that is not an adequate solution, because the components must still be manually mixed in order harden to maximum strength. HOW TO USE JB-WELD. General Principles: Although JB WELD makes an excellent filler---and can even be used to cast small parts, it is not remotely as strong as real metal used this way. I generally use a small grinding wheel in a Dremel tool to roughen the surfaces. If you do not have a commercial degreaser handy, a paste of laundry detergent and a stiff brush may do the trick. Joining Broken Parts: If you are joining broken parts, with a clean but irregular matching surfaces, limit the roughening to scratching with a wire brush or etching with an acid (but be sure to wash off all traces of the acid). Apply a THIN uniform layer of JB WELD, lightly clamp together hard enough to squeeze out any excess. ScotchBlue Painter's Tape for Multi-Surfaces 2090-.75A, 3/4 Inches by 60 Yards, 1 Roll. Joining Dissimilar Parts: Minimize any gaps if possible, e.g., by sanding if possible so that the contact as perfect as possible. To join a 1/8" steel rod, to another 1/8" steel rod, forming a "T" (a common and easy welding job, almost impossible with just JB-Weld), cut two 1"-long "L's" from a heavy-paper clip, (or make L's from similar wire), and embed those with JB-Weld on opposite sides of the joint. You can further strenthen the joint by wrapping fine steel wire around the rods holding the "L"s in place---before covering it all with JB-Weld. For small parts, or when wire wouldn't work well, unwaxed dental floss is remarkably strong, and can do an excellent job of reinforcing joints (when embeded in JB Weld). Holes in car body panels etc: If you can cover at least one side of the hole with a piece of sheet metal (held in place by JB Weld) that is a good strategy---the combination of pop-rivets and JB Weld often works especially well, even if you ultimately sand the heads of the pop rivets away. Note that epoxies do not "dry"--there are no solvents to evaporate, instead a chemical reaction hardens the cement (a plastic resin). White glue shrinks a great deal as it dries, and so is not good for filling holes or large gaps. I've used Goop to repair ceramic plant pots, water hoses, and shoes; to seal holes in air-mattresses, to close small holes in window screens, as plumbers paste in assembling plumbing parts, to I also use it to seal rust spots on my dishwasher rack--the Goop it also makes a "cushioned" surface that will prevent scratches to dishes. It is a good alternative for Goop for general household use on glass, plastic, and metal when you do not need the maximum possible strength. For example: GE Silicone II Household Glue, 2.8 oz. Fabric Glue: Beacon Fabri-Tac Permanent Adhesive, 4-Ounce works amazingly well on fabrics, saturating the surfaces enough to provide a very strong bond, but without soaking through. It remains very flexible, e.g., it would probably be great on leather or heavy vinyl (e.g., women's handbags, shoes, luggage, etc.). Previously, I used super-glue frequently on objects (e.g., jewelry) when a clear bond was required---however, Goop is better for such applications, safer, and more conveneient. Opened super-glue keeps poorly, even in tighly sealed glass containers---so I recommended packages of multiple very small tubes. Most construction adhesives are slightly flexible, and so can even be used on leather (i.e., to repair a loose shoe sole), etc. As an adhesive, it is the weakest on this list, but is strong enough for many purposes when spread over a large surface, such as the back of a ceramic tile. I could have used construction adhesive (albeit any excess that squeezed out would have been ugly)--but caulking compound was quick, cheap, looks good, and was more than adequate for the job."
"It was likely just a bubble in the granite mix that came to the surface and remained unseen until it got to me. I didn't want to take out the sink and replace it for two reasons: one it is a lot of work and two it seems like such a waste of materials in the environmental sense. I called the company and they would replace the sink free of charge (not install)."
"This is the epoxy Honda calls for when repairing leaks in the block or heads from aluminum porosity. It is very hard and strong and will withstand 550 degrees F. The key is to clean the surface completely."
"Make sure whatever you are fixing has a clean surface free of paint and dirt and you will have a strong repair."
"I sanded the end of the support rod and sanded the broken weld spot on the main pole, then applied the J-B Weld."
"This is the strongest commonly available epoxy I use and I have used a considerable number of packets over the years."
"I tried a few other brands glues for my shoes and they didn't stick long."
"Only compliant is that it is a little 'runny' before it dries."
Easy-to-Use Syringe; Separate barrels of resin and hardener keep epoxy from hardening, plus syringe dispenses evenly and includes a cap for multiple uses.
Reviews
Find Best Price at Amazon"Good 2-part epoxy."
"did not expand ridiculously like normal gorilla glue, but expanded enough to fill in the nooks and crannies of the tea cup bottoms."
"I used this to epoxy a scaffold jack steel screw to a wooden hub to make a wooden leg vise."
"Worked well joining two halves of a large broken glass dew drop."
"It gets the job done well, and I love the 5 minute cure time, which allows one room to work on getting a repair done right."
"did notwork very well..tried to re-stick a floor saddle but it was easily dislodged in a few days."
"I used it to repair the door handle on my microwave and it's held fine for a few weeks now."
"But then, customers of my resin charms started to complain that their charms fell off and now I have to remake the charms and reinforce them with clear-casting resin."
Best Tile Epoxy Adhesives
Kit Contains: 1-Gram LCA Gel Syringe | 2 dispensing tips | 1 2" curing sheet | 3 sheets of gel-coated sandpaper | small LED curing light | polish paste packet | microfiber polish cloth (enough material for 5 to 10 small repairs) | If you need to polish your repair to a high gloss, we recommend our Polish Block (light scratches) or our ProCaliber Polish Kit for heavier scratches or for the highest possible gloss finish - For proper and complete curing, apply gel in 2.5mm (1/8") layers and cure with blue light before applying more gel.
Reviews
Find Best Price at Amazon"Used it on a granite sink with a crack."
"One thing that's short of five star is the light included can only cover a small area for the gel to harden so it takes me multiple 5 minutes spot light time on different points to harden a 3/4" long strip."
"This product dries clear and after sanding and polishing it, it is indeed translucent. It is well worth the money and little effort to try this product on small chips."
"3 things that helped me with repairs: I started with smaller nicks to practice; I used a single razor blade to shave the filled area flat to the surface instead of sanding; and I suspended the curing light between 2 teacups to allow more time for curing than recommended. I was really concerned about the big repair because it was a bit more than half an inch wide & about as deep, AND on the counter edge, AND in a highly visible place. I spent a couple hours on all repairs (had to redo the first one two times because the gel was removed with the plastic when cured for only 5 min) but I couldn't be happier with the results."
"For years I've relied on the great reviews on Amazon to help make informed purchases, and yet I've never contributed to the feedback loop myself."
"I had a hard time keeping the light provided to stay on, so I used my gooseneck Ott light over the numerous chips for a longer drying time."
"I had a huge chip along the curved edge portion of my granite kitchen countertop, and wasn't sure if this would be able to fix the chip well."
"Works great, i really have to look for the chipped edge to actually find out where was the problem, would post a picture but you really cant see it."